We took a Mid-week break to Valencia to explore the incredible combination of rich history and vibrant contemporary culture. See what we got up to.
Returning from an Arsenal away game my husband regaled about how wonderful his stay in Valencia had been. The food, the architecture, the vibe “better than Barcelona” …enough I said TAKE ME! With that we booked our mid week break.
We took an afternoon flight to Valencia airport on a Tuesday in July. We arrived 25 minutes later at the gorgeous Hotel Caro. An old palace situated in the quiet Seu-Xerea neighbourhood. The room was spacious and light, ultra-cool which also means that the bath is situated throne-like at its heart. Ok if you like shared bathing … me not so much, the shower and toilet however are separated by a door!
With plenty of time for an evening wander we started exploring around town. The architecture is a thrilling mixture of Romanesque, late Gothic, art nouveau and deco. We enjoyed drinks on the triangular main square accompanied by an impromptu string band. Later we visited a couple of tapas bars including trying the delicious cheese and meat plate at Lalolar.
Our first full day in Valencia
Day one is a quick but delicious breakfast at a hipster café on the cute little Calle de la Tapineria. Followed by a walk up the Torre del Micalet, a gothic style octagonal bell tower with spectacular views of the city. Then a visit to the Placa del Mercat (central market) which is a veritable cathedral to food.
The domed building features stained glass windows and ornate doorways making it a picturesque place to shop.
Our appetites well and truly wetted we spent lunch at the restaurant in the IVAM, the city’s contemporary art gallery. Then a tour of the rooms full of exciting and interesting works. Early evening we’re off to the Mercado de Colon another, more contemporary covered market, for an Agua Valencia the town’s lethal but delicious cocktail. A truly tasty and interesting dinner at Riff. A restaurant run by a German chef who rather touchingly comes to each table to take the orders and to explain the small but truly interesting menu.
Cycling through city
Bikes were hired on day two, an easy city to get around on two wheels and then on to the City of Arts and Sciences. A stunning complex of modern white buildings designed by Valencian architect Santiago Calatrava. It consists of four main elements including a science museum, a planetarium and aquarium covering 2 kilometres of the former riverbed of the River Turia.
Valencia claims to be the home of the Paella so it had to be done. Recommended by the hotel we hopped in a cab to Casa Carmela a lively and traditional restaurant covered in the famous Valencian ceramic tiles, where the paellas are cooked over wood fires. The dish was huge, the size of a table but delicious and morish. Conveniently situated close to the beach we hired a couple of beds and snoozed it off by the water. A beautiful place to stroll on a late afternoon and sample the first stirrings of the nightlife of the Costa Blanca.
The silk house and the fine arts museum on our last day, the latter housed in a former seminary with a blue dome. The museum’s rich collection includes stunning 14th and 15th Century altar pieces and upstairs you can find the small but fine 19-20th century collection .
Lunch in the tranquil museum garden restaurant topped off a fantastic day. Only one more thing to do before flying back…. a final Agua Valencia on the hotel terrace.
Without a doubt Valencia rivals Barcelona on all counts.
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